Farmhouse decor and signs are super popular!
I love adding farmhouse touches to my home. I wanted to make a sign for my upcoming kitchen redo.
We used pallet wood for this project. My husband disassembled the pallets for me and cut the nails.
We chose boards of similar size. Pallet wood is pretty rough so I sanded the boards with my orbital sander–front, back and edges.
I wanted a washed grey background color, so I mixed white chalk paint into a until I had the color I wanted. Then watered it down so I would have more of a wash of color than an opaque look.
After the paint dried I assembled the sign boards and attached them together with two strips of wood that ran across the bottom and top of the boards on the front of the piece. I think it gives it a more rustic look. Once assembled I went back with a sanding block and 60 grit sand paper and distressed the paint.
Here is a shot of the (large) farm market sign prior to stenciling and another sign I was working on.
This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my disclosure policy.
Now for the details!
Note: I had just started to use my Cricut Explore and really didn’t know a lot about how to use it. I have since learned a lot and this stencil can be made in one piece and sized to fit your sign perfectly–no centering every phrase and aligning everything–the basic construction is still the same!
I made the stencils in four sections (mainly because I didn’t know at the time I could do it all at once-you live, you learn). The heading “Farmer’s Market”, the Chicken/Egg graphic, homemade etc., organic etc, and fresh baked. I designed each section on Cricut Design Space and cut the stencils on my Cricut Explore using contact paper.
Once I had finished designing, I applied the Contact Paper to a cutting mat and loaded it into the Cricut Explore and cut. After cutting, I pulled the letters “out” (better known as weeding) of the backing leaving a void where the letters were. The next step is to apply transfer tape over the entire stencil section. The Transfer tape is necessary because when you pull the “weeded” contact paper off the mat it will stretch out of shape as well as when you remove the back of the contact paper. The transfer tape keeps it stable and allows for adjustments in placement before you remove the adhesive back and fix it permanently
Positioning the stencils was a little more difficult than I expected. The hardest part was getting everything spaced and laid out properly. I used a ruler, painter’s tape and level for this step. Again, I have now learned a way to make the stencil without having it in pieces. It’s all one piece, sized for fit the wood and much easier to deal with!
Once I was happy with the layout, I carefully peeled back the the paper backing from the contact paper and used a small flat spatula-like tool to remove all the air bubbles. I repeated this procedure with each group of words/graphics until they were all in place. ( Just an FYI–what you are looking at in the above photo is the contact paper with the backing still on it, covered with transfer tape. I have recently stopped using the clear unlined magic cover and now use the Cricut transfer tape.
Now, this next step is important.
Did I mention that this next step is IMPORTANT?
Wood has a grain and that grain sometimes pulls the paint under the stencil if there isn’t a good seal. It’s recommended that you take your background paint and “seal” the edges of each letter by painting over the entire edge of each letter as shown above. You can also do this with Modge Podge I start just outside the letter or graphic and pull the paint into the center of each letter or graphic. It really only takes a few minutes and is so worth it. There’s nothing worse then pulling your stencil off and finding that your paint has bled beyond the stencil edges! You can see below, I literally painted over each open area of stencil making sure to get the edges!
Now your ready to stencil. I chose black acrylic paint for everything. I wanted a very simple look.
How to Stencil
Squeeze some paint onto a paper plate, dab your stencil brush or stencil sponge (pouncer or spouncer) into the paint and then blot it onto a paper towel to remove excess paint. You don’t want a brush dripping with paint, you want have it more on the dry side. You can always add more! I apply the paint starting at the outside of the letter, just overlapping the edge of the stencil and working into the middle using a “pouncing” action. Pounce until your letters are filled and you have achieved the level of coverage you want.
After allowing the paint to dry completely, I went back with my sanding block and, using a fine grit sandpaper (120), lightly sanded all the stenciled areas to “age” the letters and graphic. Then I coated the entire sign with a light coat of non-yellowing Minwax Polycrylic.
I can’t wait to finish my kitchen project, for now, I have the sign in my living room.
I’m really happy with the results.
If you have any questions about any of the steps, please ask them in the comment area below. I will be more than happy to answer them.
Don’t forget to subscribe in the box at the top of the page to receive notification of new posts right in your email!
Check out these posts for more Cricut projects and Signs:
We have recently changed our name from The Decorated Nest to The Nested Design Company!
The post “Pallet Farmers Market Sign” was written and created by Karen Ploransky and seen first on The Decorated Nest blog.